How To Build A New Wall At The Corner And How To Reduce The Possibility Of Cracking Later?

Today we mainly talk about what issues need to be paid attention to when building walls? Recently, I have received a lot of questions from netizens about this. Let’s address them one by one:

#How to build a new wall on the corner#

The standard practice is to stagger the bricks at every other level at the junction so that the stability of the wall is good. Check the diagram below to see if your wall is built correctly?

#Should steel bars be inserted into both old and new walls? #

This question depends on the "splicing" method you choose between the old and new walls in your home: Do they connect in a line? Or a T-shaped handover? Or an L-shaped handover?

Personally I think a T-shaped handover may not be necessary. During construction, grooves will be cut into the old wall and new bricks will be embedded in them. The possibility of cracking itself is very small.

If the walls of your home are connected in an L shape, the seams are a sure thing! Steel bars need to be implanted for reinforcement so that the two become a whole, which can effectively prevent cracking.

▼Implant two L-shaped steel bars every 60cm in height

#After the new wall is built, how to reduce the possibility of later cracking? #

The correct approach is to first remove the 15 cm wide plaster layer from the old wall (note, it is 15 cm wide, not the entire width), and then hang a mesh between the old and new walls before plastering.

Hanging netting before plastering can prevent wall cracking and increase the strength of the wall. However, it should be noted that if the mesh is too dense, whether it is painted with latex paint or laid with ceramic tiles later, it will easily cause hollows and average pore sizes. The effect is better when it is above 1cm*1cm.

#Door beams should be made above the doorway#

Since the door opening is empty, if there is no door beam support above the door frame, the red bricks above will definitely compress the door frame and door in the future. The door does not open smoothly, gets stuck halfway, or the door frame or door becomes deformed in the future. The door must be open.

Therefore, in order to prevent problems before they occur, all prerequisite construction must be in place, and steel bars must be used above the door opening! Cement boards are used as beams.

#Bathroom renovation, don’t forget the new waterproof beams at the bottom of the wall#

If waterproof beams are not cast at the bottom of the new bathroom wall, it will be useless no matter how well the waterproof layer is applied in the future. Waterproof beams cannot be missing, as they prevent the bathroom from seeping from the bottom into the adjacent space.

▼Just use cement to pour the piers with a height of not less than 15cm. Not too difficult!

#Lightweight bricks must be watered#

If the brick is too dry, it will absorb the moisture in the cement mortar and the bond strength will be poor. When the bonding force is poor, it will naturally affect the stability of the wall, especially the wall made of lightweight bricks. I always thought it was the same as red brick, but it's not. It is a foam brick and the bricks must be wetted so that they have a certain level of moisture before you can start building the wall.

Finally, among the many questions raised by netizens, the most frequently asked question is, why didn’t the owner build the wall to the top at once?

For those who have followed Sir, this problem has been explained before. If you build it to the top at once, cracks will easily appear at the junction between the ceiling and the wall later, so generally the top is left after the bottom is built. Several layers of bricks will be laid in a day or two;

▲It should be noted here that the capping bricks should be tilted at 45° to prevent wall deformation and have good earthquake resistance. The above is a wrong example.

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